Traditional Lunigiana food
Culinary Heritage

Traditional Food & Markets

Must-Try Dishes

Traditional Lunigiana Cuisine

Ancient recipes passed down through generations, using simple ingredients transformed into extraordinary dishes.

Testaroli pasta diamonds served with green pesto

Testaroli

Signature Pasta

The undisputed culinary symbol of Pontremoli and the Lunigiana. This ancient pasta — possibly predating Roman times — is made from a simple batter of flour, water, and salt, cooked on a hot terracotta disc called a testo. The resulting crepe-like pancake is cut into diamond shapes, briefly boiled, and dressed with pesto, olive oil, or mushroom sauce.

Where to try:Best with traditional Pontremolese pesto (basil, pecorino, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil). Try them at Osteria San Francesco e il Lupo or Il Cantinon.

Freshly made panigacci flatbread from Lunigiana

Panigacci

Traditional Bread

Unleavened bread discs cooked in stacks of terracotta dishes (testi) over a wood fire. The result is a slightly smoky, chewy flatbread that's torn apart and eaten with cured meats, soft cheeses, and local honey. Podenzana is considered the spiritual home of panigacci.

Where to try:Visit La Gavarina d'Oro in Podenzana for the definitive panigacci experience. Also available in sweet versions with Nutella or jam.

Torta d'erbi herb pie with green filling on a wooden board

Torta d'Erbi(Herb Pie)

Savory Pie

A savory pie filled with wild greens, herbs, and ricotta cheese, encased in a thin, crispy pastry. Every family has their own recipe, using whatever seasonal greens are available — from chard and spinach to wild nettles and borage.

Where to try:Available at most trattorias and bakeries. Best enjoyed at room temperature as an antipasto or light lunch.

Golden-brown sgabei fried bread dough in a bowl

Sgabei

Street Food

Strips of bread dough deep-fried until golden and puffy, creating a light, crispy treat. Served savory with prosciutto and stracchino cheese, or sweet dusted with sugar. The perfect street food during festivals and markets.

Where to try:Look for sgabei at any festival or sagra. Best eaten hot, stuffed with local salumi and soft cheese.

Amor pastries — cream-filled wafer cookies from Pontremoli

Amor

Pastry

Pontremoli's signature sweet — two thin, crispy wafer discs sandwiching a delicate cream filling. Created in the historic Caffè degli Svizzeri, these elegant pastries are the town's most beloved confection and make perfect gifts.

Where to try:Buy them at Caffè degli Svizzeri or Pasticceria Duomo. They keep well for a few days and make wonderful souvenirs.

Spongata cake filled with nuts and dried fruit, dusted with powdered sugar

Spongata

Traditional Cake

A rich, spiced cake filled with dried fruits, honey, pine nuts, and candied citrus peel, encased in a thin pastry shell. This ancient recipe dates back to medieval times and is traditionally served during Christmas and New Year celebrations.

Where to try:Available at Caffè degli Svizzeri and local bakeries, especially during the holiday season.

Castagnaccio chestnut cake topped with pine nuts in a round pan

Castagnaccio

Chestnut Cake

A dense, flat cake made from chestnut flour, olive oil, pine nuts, and rosemary. This humble dessert reflects the Lunigiana's deep connection to chestnut culture — for centuries, chestnuts were the primary food source for mountain communities.

Where to try:Best in autumn during the castagnate festivals. Pair with a glass of local red wine or vin santo.

Necci chestnut crepe filled with ricotta, drizzled with honey

Necci(Chestnut Crepes)

Chestnut Specialty

Thin crepes made from chestnut flour, cooked between two iron plates over a fire. Traditionally filled with fresh ricotta cheese, they offer a subtly sweet, nutty flavor that is uniquely Lunigianese.

Where to try:Available at autumn festivals and some restaurants. Try them with fresh ricotta and a drizzle of local honey.

From the Land

Local Products & Specialties

The Lunigiana's diverse terrain — from mountain pastures to olive groves — produces an exceptional range of artisanal foods.

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Porcini Mushrooms

The Lunigiana forests yield exceptional porcini mushrooms, harvested in autumn and used fresh, dried, or preserved in oil.

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Chestnuts & Chestnut Flour

Once the 'bread of the poor,' chestnuts remain central to local cuisine. The flour is used for necci, castagnaccio, and polenta.

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Zeri Lamb

A prized local breed raised in the mountain pastures of Zeri, known for its tender, flavorful meat. A Slow Food presidium.

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Local Honey

Acacia, chestnut, and wildflower honeys from Apennine beekeepers. Chestnut honey is particularly distinctive with its dark color and robust flavor.

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Lunigiana Olive Oil

Extra virgin olive oil from the region's ancient olive groves. Lighter and more delicate than southern Tuscan oils.

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Local Wines

Colli di Luni DOC wines, including Vermentino whites and robust reds from Sangiovese and Merlot grapes.

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Lardo di Colonnata

Cured pork fat aged in marble basins with herbs and spices, from nearby Colonnata in the Apuan Alps. An IGP-protected delicacy.

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Pecorino Cheese

Local sheep's milk cheese, aged in natural caves. Ranges from fresh and mild to aged and sharp.

Shop Local

Weekly Markets

Weekly markets are a staple of life in the Lunigiana, offering fresh local produce, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and more.

Pontremoli

Wednesday· 8:30 AM – 1:30 PM

The main weekly market in Pontremoli's historic center. Fresh produce, local cheeses, cured meats, clothing, and household goods.

Fivizzano

Tuesday· 8:00 AM – 1:00 PM

Producers' market featuring local organic produce, artisanal cheeses, and seasonal specialties.

Aulla

Wednesday· 8:00 AM – 1:00 PM

Large producers' market with a wide variety of fresh local products and regional specialties.

Villafranca in Lunigiana

Saturday· 8:00 AM – 1:00 PM

Weekly market in the historic center with local produce, clothing, and artisan goods.

Fivizzano

1st Sunday· All day

Mercante per un Giorno — a special monthly market where anyone can become a merchant for a day. Antiques, crafts, and curiosities.